<![CDATA[Willamette Valley Rabbitry - a family owned Rabbitry and Pet Transport Service in Dallas, Oregon - Blog]]>Sun, 06 Aug 2023 08:18:46 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[Tips For Raising Rabbits in the Heat]]>Thu, 11 May 2017 05:49:02 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/tips-for-raising-rabbits-in-the-heatPosted by willamettevalleyrabbitry

With summer heat on the way , raising rabbits can be very frustrating.  Many days in the summer there are temperatures approaching 80ºF to 95ºF+. For rabbits outside in a hutch (even in a shady area) this can be a death sentence. A rabbit’s optimal air temperature is between 50ºF and 70ºF. Here are some different ways to help keep rabbits cool and somewhat comfortable. As the temperatures rise, so do a rabbit’s chances of getting heatstroke.

Rabbits with thick or long coats of hair, overweight, and young or old are at an even greater risk. Temperature, humidity and air ventilation are all factors that contribute to heatstroke in a rabbit. Early detection of heatstroke and proper corrective steps could mean the difference between life and death for your rabbits.

Signs and symptoms that will help you recognize that your rabbit has or is beginning to get heat stroke.

-The rabbit is fully stretched out. The feet are sprawled apart and the tail is limp.
-Wetness around the nose area
-Eyes are half closed. The rabbit has a sleepy or dazed appearance.
-The rabbit’s tongue is hanging out. His breathing is rapid and possibly labored.
-Fast, shallow breathing
-The rabbit is reluctant to move.
-The rabbit refuses to eat or drink.
-Hot ears

The summer heat can cause your rabbits stress and health problems.

-Bucks can go sterile for several months if they are kept in a too hot of environment it takes up to 3 months for them to get back to normal fertility.
-Rabbits can lose condition and eat less food.
-Many times your bucks will go into molts and temporarily lose most of their hair.
-Lastly when a rabbit gets too overheated they can die from heat stroke.

Preventing heat stress is the key. Ways to help your rabbits survive the heat include.-Looking at the makeup of the common domestic rabbit, one sees that he is completely covered from head to toe in a thick fur coat. This leaves no way for the rabbit to perspire. There are virtually no means of which the rabbit can cool his body temperature other than their ears. The ears of a rabbit act as a temperature control mechanism, to warm themselves up or cool themselves down, they are able to do this because their ears are filled with blood vessels which run close to the surface of the ear. When the animal is too hot the blood vessels are able to cool the blood down from the cool air around the ear, the blood vessels are also able to warm the blood by the ears being in the sun, warming the ears and in turn the rabbit

Rabbits and heat are never a good combination, and heat stroke is one of the leading causes of death in rabbits. Fortunately it can easily be avoided, even if you do not have air conditioning.

-Plenty of ventilation – Fans can be used but not best to have them blowing directly on rabbits. Place a cold, damp towel over a fan directed at your rabbit’s pen. As the water evaporates it will help keep your rabbit cool. Air flow is critical. Have a fan that is circulating the air. This not only makes the area cooler, but can help with the ammonia smell that can build up and increase in strength during hot days. And if possible, have the fan set up so that it is pulling the cool air in and not blowing against it.

-Plenty of shade- Keep them in the shade during the day. Ideally you would use trees to shade your rabbit building or hutches. Natural shade is very helpful. If you have a shelter of some sort made of wood, which is then shaded by a tree, this is optimal. Being under a tree will make a big difference vs. being under a wood cover that is being hit directly by sunlight.

-Frozen ice cubes in a dish during hottest part of day

-Make sure there is enough space for them to stretch out to get cool.

-Ceramic tiles can be provided for them to lay on. If you place the tile in the refrigerator for an hour beforehand it will provide even greater relief

-Plenty of clean cool water. Cool water is important. Make sure they have cool water to drink to cool themselves down. If their water is hot, it not only causes them to drink less, but also keeps them from cooling down when needed. You may need to change their water 3 or 4 times a day during the hot months. And if you have an automatic watering system, make sure you have some way of flushing the system to get the hot water out of the lines and cool water in several times a day.

-Frozen liter bottles for them to lie against. Fill two to three one or two liter bottles about eighty percent full with water and freeze them. Take one out, wrap in paper towels or with a thin, clean rag that you won’t care to be chewed upon. Place this in your rabbit’s pen. This will last between four and eight hours before you will need to replace it with a new one. Place the thawed bottle back in the freezer so that you may use it again. Your rabbit will lay next to, or even on this bottle and get great relief from the heat.

-Evaporator systems like swamp coolers work in dryer climates. If barn is small enough to be closed an ac window unit can be used but again ventilation is stressed.

-Wet piece of carpet-Carpets cut into small pieces dunked in water will retain water throughout most of the day. You will have to watch for soiled pieces and change out for clean ones.

-Wet bricks – Soak them in a bucket of cold water. The bricks absorb the water and retain the coolness for hours.

-Feed in early morning or late in evening. Leave them alone during hottest part of day.

-Misters can be used also. If your aisles are 4’ to 5’ wide, place the mister down the middle. If you use “J” feeders, you may need to cover them to keep the feed dry. Do not let the water mist on the rabbits. Misters will lower the temperature 10-15 degrees in dryer climates.

-Outside hutches – Staple a burlap bag to the roof of the cage and have it drape over front of the cages. Place a soaker hose upside down close to the front of the roof edge. Set the hose on a timer or turn it on manually. The water will run over the burlap and act as a swamp cooler. The rabbits will lay closer to the fronts of their cages for the coolness.

-Avoid keeping multiple rabbits in the same cage. When you have multiple rabbits sharing a cage, their shared body heat contributes to a hotter living environment

When you are able to put most of these together; the cages being under a shelter which is under a tree, with cool water for them to drink, frozen 2 liter bottles in their cages, with air flow from a fan and a proper misting system, your rabbits can get through the scorching summer heat.

If you discover one of your rabbits are over heated there are a few things you can do to help, if caught in time

-Wet rabbit’s ears with a cool wet towel

-Place cold packs against the body moving around slowly but do not leave there.

-If they are alert water given orally is important

-As a last resort, dip your rabbit into cool water, taking care to keep her head and ears above the water. Most rabbits will not like this, and though it is effective, it will likely cause undue stress for your rabbit

If you breed during the summer months, you know how hard it is to keep those bucks from going sterile and keep those kits cool. Here are a few tips for those.

-Keep your bucks a close to the ground as possible. The cooler the better.

-Load the bucks up in carriers and bring them inside during the hottest part of the day.

– Bring the nest boxes inside to keep cool. Number or put the name of the doe on the boxes so you know where they go when returned. If the kits are likely to come out and explore while in the house, set them in your bathtub. If they are all the same color, you may want to number their ears so you know where they go later.

-If you need to breed your rabbits in the summer months I recommend that you use all wire nest boxes to help keep your newborn kits cool. Alternatively you can take your nest boxes indoors for the day and bring them back outside in the evening. If neither option works for you, simply be sure to keep your rabbits in a well shaded environment and maybe try running a sprinkler.

Remember- an ideal temperature for your rabbit is in the fifty to sixty degree Fahrenheit range. Any day above eighty degrees is a potential problem for your rabbit. With care and prevention your rabbits will enjoy many productive comfortable summers.

Hope you all enjoyed this post! JOIN THE RABBIT REVOLUTION! Like Us On Facebook -Subscribe to the blog to get the updates as they are posted!
]]><![CDATA[SAFE FOOD LIST FOR RABBITS]]>Fri, 17 Mar 2017 16:22:52 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/safe-food-list-for-rabbitsPosted by: Willamette Valley Rabbitry
Just like people, bunnies enjoy a good meal.  A nice mix of Timothy Hay, pellets and fresh water will make your rabbit healthy and happy.  NEVER feed grass clippings!  They tend to get “hot” and ferment quickly.  So how much to feed?  For example a 2 pound Netherland Dwarf would get 2 oz. or a 1/4 cup; a 4 pound Holland Lop would get 4 oz. or 1/2 cup; a 6 pound Mini Lop would get 6 oz. or 3/4 cup; a 12 pound French Lop would get 12 oz. or 1-1/2 cups.

Remember these are general guidelines for a caged rabbit. I would rather see a bunny a little too lean than too fat. Like people, they live longer if they don't get too fat. Similarly, each will metabolize what they eat differently.

The best guide is how your rabbits looks and feels. My basic guide to tell if one is too fat is to see if I can get a handful of loose skin over its' back. If not, it’s too fat! If I can feel every bone down its spine, it's too thin. Some breeds tend to be beefier than others.

There is no substitute for common sense! If you're feeding the scheduled amount and your rabbit feels too thin or too fat, adjust the quantity accordingly. If he still feels too fat or too thin, consult your vet to rule out parasites or a metabolic disorder.

What About Treats?  Who doesn’t want dessert?  Here’s a list of foods by their common names.  It’s not a guide to the nutritional value.  The key to feeding ANYTHING is MODERATION.  Start out slowly offering slowly giving very small pieces and only introduce ONE new treat on any given day so the gut flora can adapt to the new feed.  Bunnies under the age of 3 months should not have ANY FRUITS OR VEGETABLES. 
A baby carrot or small apple slice or small (quarter size) banana slice are the safest to start with (in small pieces) at the age of 3 months.

NO OTHER FRUITS OR VEGETABLES UNTIL SIX MONTHS OF AGE should be fed in order to allow the digestive system time to develop fully. Then, as with a human baby, introduce new foods (except lettuce and celery) slowly in very small amounts.

Apples, pears, fresh pineapple, fresh papaya, kiwi, citrus of all kinds and watermelon seem to be favorite snacks. Strawberries seem to be on the "least favorite" list although they do like the strawberry leaves. The crunchier the better for the sake of their teeth.

Greens such as fresh spinach, kale, chard, parsley are welcome treats as well but be very careful not to overdo it for fear of the onset of diarrhea. Kale is okay in small quantities on occasion. Dark green leafy vegetables are high in oxylates that can lead to bladder sludge and stones so if you feel you must feed greens, do it sparingly!

I do not feed my rabbits ANY green vegetables and they are happy, healthy and live long lives. The only greens they get are hay and apple wood. I believe that the vegetable diets promoted by many rescue groups and even vets are the cause of the growing number of cases of GI Stasis. When rabbits become bloated with gas the gut loses motility and shut down follows.

Some rabbits don't excrete calcium efficiently and can develop a condition known as bladder sludge where the calcium if not excreted and the bladder fills with the calcium sludge. The following foods should be avoided if your rabbit has been diagnosed with bladder sludge.

Foods that contain oxalates that can produce bladder sludge:

The following are some examples of the most common sources of oxalates, arranged by food group. It is important to note that the leaves of a plant almost always contain higher oxalate levels than the roots, stems, and stalks.

•Fruits ◦blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, kiwi fruit, concord (purple) grapes, figs, tangerines, and plums

•Vegetables: spinach, Swiss chard, beet greens, collards, okra, parsley, and leeks are among the most oxlate-dense vegetables. Celery, green beans, rutabagas, and summer squash would be considered moderately dense in oxalates.

•Nuts and seeds ◦almonds, cashews, and peanuts

•Legumes ◦soybeans, tofu

At the first sign of a soft or runny bowel movement, take the fruit or vegetable away and feed plain straw, dry oatmeal or dry bread.

If you have other foods that are safe, let me know so I can add to the list!

RABBIT SAFE FRUIT-
(Feed very, very sparingly… Super sugary! Up to 2 tbsp daily) :
Apple (NO core or anything containing seeds, unless all seeds removed)
Apricots (NO PITS)
Banana (fruit and peel)
Blackberry (stem, leaf and fruit)
Blueberries
Carambola
Cherry (NO PITS)
Cranberry
Currant (black and red)
Cucumber
Grapes (fruit, leaf and vine are edible)
Huckleberry
Kiwi Fruit
Mango
Nectarine
Orange (NO PEEL- segments only)
Melon (all melons)
Papaya (NO SEEDS)
Peach (NO PITS)
Pear
Pineapple
Plum (NO PITS)
Raspberries (twigs, and leaves – astringent)
Rose hip
Starfruit
Strawberries (and leaves)
Tomato (red fruit ONLY; no stems or leaves)
Tangerine (NO PEEL – segments only)
Watermelon

RABBIT SAFE VEGETABLES-
Alfalfa Sprouts
Artichoke Leaves
Arugula
Asparagus
Baby Sweet Corns (like in stir fry)
Beet Greens
Beetroot
Bell Peppers (green, yellow, red, orange)
Bok Choy/Pak Choy
Carrot Greens (tops)
Carrot (limited amount, due to high sugar content)
Celeriac
Cucumber
Chard
Chicory Greens (aka Italian Dandelion)
Clover (WHITE only)
Collard Greens (be cautious, may cause bladder sludge (high calcium)
Dandelion Greens (no pesticides)
Eggplant (purple fruit only; leaves toxic)
Endive
Escarole
Grass (if cut from your own chemical/fertilizer/poison free back yard-I spread it out and dry it)
Kale
Lettuce (Dark Green/Red Leaf, Butter, Boston, Bibb, or Romaine – NO ICEBERG [no
nutritional value, may cause diarrhea])
Mustard Spinach
Nappa/Chinese Cabbage
Okra Leaves
Pak Choy/Bok Choy
Pumpkin
Radicchio
Radish tops (Limited amounts: can cause gas)
Raspberry Leaves
Rhubarb (RED STALKS ONLY – POISONOUS LEAF)
Squash: Yellow, Butternut, Pumpkin, Zucchini
Swiss Chard
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Wheat Grass
Zucchini

SAFE IN MODERATION-
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Kale
Mustard Greens
Spinach

RABBIT SAFE FOODS-
Agrimony
Alfalfa
Apple
Avens
Balm
Banana
Barley
Basil
Beetroot
Blackberry
Borage
Broccoli
Buckwheat
Burnet
Camomile
Caraway
Carrot
Celeriac
Chervil
Chicory
Chickweed
Chinese leaf
Cleavers
Clover, WHITE
Coltsfoot
Comfrey-I feed fresh young leaves and also dry for winter tonic, but most breeders say they feed it slighty wilted
Coriander
Corn marigold
Corn spurrey
Cow parsnip
Crosswort
Cucumber
Dandelion
Dead-Nettles
Dill
Dock BEFORE FLOWERING
Endive
Fat hen
Fennel
Goosefoot
Goosegrass
Goutweed BEFORE FLOWERING
Ground elder BEFORE FLOWERING
Hawkbit
Hawkweed
Heather
Hedge parsley
Horseradish
Jerusalem artichoke
Knapweed
Knotgrass
Kohlrabi
Lavender
Lovage
Mallow
Marjoram
Mayweed
Maywort
Meadowsweet
Melon
Milk thistle
Mugwort
Nipplewort
Oats
Orache
Oxeye daisy
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Pear
Peppermint
Pigweed
Plantain
Pumpkin
Purslane
Radish GREENS
Raspberry
Sage
Savory
Sanfoin
Shepherd’s purse
Silverweed
Sow thistle
Soya
Strawberry
Swiss Chard
Tare
Tomatoes(fruit only leaves and stocks toxic!)
Trefoil
Vetch
Vine leaves
Watercress
Watermelon
Wheat
Yarrow

RABBIT SAFE TREE AND SHRUB LEAVES- feed only fresh young leaves-
Acacia
Apple
Beech
Birch
Blackberry
Cherry
Hazel
Horse Chestnut
Lime
Mountain Ash
Mulberry
Pear
Poplar (not black)
Raspberry
Strawberry
SAFE TWIGS-
Apple
Birch
Blackberry
Fir
Hazel
Hawthorn
Maple
Pear
Raspberry
Spruce
Willow

RABBIT SAFE FLOWERS-
Aster
Daisy
Geranium
Geum
Helenium
Hollyhock
Honesty
Marguerite
Marigold
Michaelmas daisy
Nasturtium
Rose
Stock
Sunflower

RABBIT SAFE HERBS-
Basil: Lemon, Globe, Thai, Mammoth, Sweet, Genevieve
Borage
Camomile
Caraway
Clover
Chervil
Comfrey
Coriander/Cilantro
Dill: Fernleaf, Mammoth
Fennel
Garden Cress
Groundsel
Lavender (Not for pregnant does; can cause fetal expulsion)
Lemon Balm
Lovage
Marjoram
Mint: Pineapple sage, pineapple mint, apple mint, orange mint, peppermint, lemon thyme, cinnamon basil, lime basil, lemon basil, sweet basil, licorice basil, “licorice mint” (anise hyssop), spearmint, peppermint, chocolate mint, and basil mint.
Oregano
Peppermint
Parsley: Curly and Flat-Leaf
Rosemary
Sage: Pineapple is quite good
Salad Burnet / Small Burnet
Summer Savory
Tarragon
Thyme

]]><![CDATA[Raising Rabbits Organically ]]>Fri, 03 Mar 2017 20:53:05 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/raising-rabbits-organicallyBelieve it or not, even if your back yard is no bigger than a queen-size mattress (about 30 square feet), you can produce 200 pounds of homegrown meat every year…by raising rabbits!  For the urban gardener or homesteader, domestic rabbits can be valuable livestock.  Its flavor is often compared to chicken, and – like barnyard fowl rabbit is good fried, baked, stewed, cooked in casseroles, and prepared in many other ways.   Rabbit meat is an excellent source of protein; the pelts can be used in numerous applications including hats, collars, mittens, lap robes, cushion covers, vests and coats; and rabbit manure is an excellent fertility source.
 
“Thumper pellets” have more nitrogen and phosphorous than does horse, cow, or pig manure…but won’t burn plants, as chicken droppings will.  You could also set up a ground level bin or old wheel barrel under your elevated rabbit hutches and start a worm farm in the collected droppings.  If you want to water houseplants or tender seedlings, make a manure tea using a quart or more of rabbit droppings soaked in five galls of water for a day or two, stir a few times, strain into your watering can and what those berry bushes grow!

Under the National Organic Program, organic livestock production is a management system that respects the animal’s health and well being and provides housing and feed most closely resembling the natural environment. 

We first considered breed and breed stock in establishing the rabbit herd.  As our production rabbits are bred for both pelts and meat, we chose New Zealand and American Chinchilla into the breed line.  The New Zealand rabbits grow to a good slaughter weight in a relatively short time.  Visit the breeder before you purchase livestock, and isolate a new rabbit for at least a week before introducing it to the herd.
Housing rabbits is critical and must take into consideration the life cycle of the rabbit.  In our production system, we figure that it takes about four months from breeding date to slaughter date, a useful calculation when determine when to breed and how many litters for each season.  It’s a good idea to replace brood does when they reach 3 years of age with your own stock and replace bucks with a new blood line.

A doe should be at least 6-8 months and a buck 6-7 months old before mating. For best results, we take the doe to the buck’s hutch for breeding as they tend to be territorial, twice, once early in the day and then later in the evening.  Fertilization takes place 8 to 10 hours after mating.  The normal gestation period for rabbits is 28-32 days.  About five days before deliver, clean the hutch thoroughly, put a wooden nest box in the back of the hutch and fill with plenty of clean hay.  Right before kindling (giving birth), the doe pulls fur from her chest, shoulders and sides to line the nest with the hay.

Once the doe kindles, check to see that the kits are covered, but do not disturb the doe for at least 24 hours.  They can be extremely protective and some may abandon kits that were handled too soon after birth.  About 36 hours after kindling, give the doe a small treat in the front of the hutch, count and check the kits and remove any dead ones.  The kits should be check daily.  Sometimes a kit will stay on the doe when she’s finished nursing and end up on the wire.  These kits should be returned to the nest box.

A clean water supply is essential at all times.  Consumption will vary according to the type of feed and climate conditions and increases when the doe is lactating.  A lactating doe will eat up to 3 times her normal rations.  They have small stomachs, which are emptied into very long intestines only as new food enters.  This is why rabbits consume only small quantities at a time and must be fed regularly to avoid digestive upsets.

Baby rabbits will usually open their eyes around 12-14 days old.  They will start venturing out of the nest box and begin to nibble on food.  It may be necessary to increase the doe’s rations.  Around 5 weeks, the kits and doe are ready for larger quarters.  After the kits reach 6 weeks of age, the doe may be rebred and returned to her hutch.  Around 8 weeks, the fryers have reached a size to separate into pens with no more than three animals per pen.

Our rabbits are fed organic timothy hay, small rations of grain, and daily handfuls of pasture-type materials, such as grass, dandelions, carrot tops, root vegetables, apples, sunflower and pumpkin seeds or cornstalks.  Be sure to introduce new foods slowly to rabbits as they can become piggy and eat too much, resulting in diarrhea and death.   In winter, our rabbits are content to nibble on free choice hay, vegetable scraps such as carrots, parsnips, rutabagas.  Organic rabbit production is ideal for our homesteading needs.

Once the fryers have reached about 3 months of age and around 5 pounds, they will either need to be sexed and separated or slaughtered.  In our production system, we move fryers to the freezer and the latest batch of kits to nursery pens.  Non producing does and mean rabbits are culled from the herd.

After twelve weeks comes the hardest part of preparing your rabbits for the table, and could be the turning point for some people to become vegetarians.  This is a time to honor and give thanks and appreciation to the rabbit for sustain our needs.  The first step is to render the rabbit unconscious quickly to prevent suffering and struggling.  The two methods generally employed are either stunning or dislocating its neck.  The first way is probably best for the novice.

After skinning the rabbit, removing the entrails, rinse the carcass in cold water to remove any hair and blood and refrigerate for 10-12 hours before cutting up. You won’t need to throw out your rabbits’ innards, either.  You can slice the kidneys in half, deep-fry segments, and serve them as hors d’oeuvres.  Rabbit liver and heart can be cooked and chopped into a tasty sandwich spread, or fried with mushrooms and bacon.  Even the offal from your butchered fryers can be utilized…as a tasty treat for dogs or pigs.  All work in connection with rabbit carcasses should be done in a hygienic and sanitary manner.

Sanitation of hutches, pens, feeders and water bottles is critical to successful rabbit husbandry.  Organic producers must use an approved product for sanitizing.  We use a hydrogen peroxide and peroxyacetic acid product marketed as Sanidate (Green Cleaning BioSafe)  or Oxidate.

Rabbits kept in dirty conditions are susceptible to coccidiosis, a highly contagious and deadly disease.  We clean our hutches weekly and sanitize before new rabbits are boarded in them.  Rabbits kept in clean conditions have relatively few health issues. Once the production season is over, prepare the Rabbitry for winter.  Pens and nest boxes are cleaned, organic hay and organic pellets are stored in the barn.

Four does and one buck will provide a family with plenty of meat to last the year. Before you get started, you should know just how much food you can expect to get.  A good doe will yield four or five litters – with six to nine kits a batch – per year.  Each of the young animals should reach a weight of 4 to 4 ½ pounds at eight to ten weeks.  Therefore, a single doe can contribute 60 pounds – or more- of meat for your larder in one year.  That ain’t a bad output from on 10-12 pound animal.   Here’s a tasty recipe you might enjoy.  We do have recipe books available for purchase.  Bon appetite

Recipe for Creole Rabbit
Rabbit (about 3.5 lbs. ready-to-cook) cut in serving pieces
1 cup milk
Flour, salt, pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
Creole sauce (see recipe below)

Dip rabbit in milk and roll it in mixture of flour, salt, and pepper.
Heat oil and brown rabbit lightly on all sides. Pour sauce over rabbit; cover pan.
Bake at 320 degrees (slow oven) 1 hour, or until meat is tender. Uncover and bake 30 minutes longer to brown top. Serves six.

Creole Sauce
2 medium onions, sliced
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups tomato juice or 1 large can of tomato soup
Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to taste

Cook onions, garlic, parsley and optional vegetables in the oil until onion is golden brown. Add other ingredients except salt and pepper and cook gently for 15 minutes. Seas
]]><![CDATA[Why are Rabbits Critical in Medical Research?]]>Thu, 23 Feb 2017 20:41:39 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/why-are-rabbits-critical-in-medical-research
First let me say that rabbits are one of the most commonly used animals in research and testing, second only to guinea pigs.  Although their numbers have declined over the past two decades 205,482 rabbits were held in laboratories in 2012, more than any other species covered under the Animal Welfare Act. 

Proponents of animal testing say that it has enabled the development of many life-saving treatments for both humans and animals, that there is no alternative method for researching a complete living organism, and that strict regulations prevent the mistreatment of animals in laboratories.

Opponents of animal testing say that it is cruel and inhumane to experiment on animals, that alternative methods available to researchers can replace animal testing, and that animals are so different from human beings that research on animals often yields irrelevant results. 

Visit ProCon.org a leading source for  Pros & Cons of Controversial Issues

As models, scientists aim to produce artificially, a condition in an animal in a laboratory that may resemble the human equivalent of a medical disease or injury.  Some feel this is inhumane and cruel whereas others feel a necessity.  Rabbits in fact have made enormous contributions to understanding the cause, treatment and prevention of many complex diseases.

Areas of disease research include neurological, infectious, digestive, genetic, connective tissue, and chronic diseases.  In these areas, animals are used as models of traumatic brain injuries, spinal cord injuries, congenital blindness, Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s AIDS, diabetes, cancer, obesity, and so on. 

For medical products such as vaccines, drugs, and medical devices, rabbits are used to test pyrogenicity.  Additionally, because of their high rate of reproduction, rabbits are also used to test developmental or embryotoxicity.  They are also used in basic and biomedical research, as models for diseases and disorders:

  1. The rabbit was the first animal model of cancer caused by a virus
  2. Rabbits are used to produce antibodies, used for research into infectious diseases and immunology
  3. Rabbits are used as models for cystic fibrosis and cholera
  4. Louis Pasteur used rabbits to develop his rabies vaccine
  5. Rabbits are important in the study of cardiovascular disease, particularly hypertension and atheroscierosis
  6. Rabbits are key for studies on cancer, glaucoma, ear infections, eye infections, diabetes and emphysema
  7. Surgical lasers were developed using rabbits
  8. Rabbits are used to research the influence of high cholesterol

On May 19, 2015, Last Chance for Animals’ filed a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission against meat retailer D’Artagnan, Inc, for deceptive and unfair advertising practices.  D’Artagnan is a “gourmet” company that sells rabbit meat packaged at the Pel-Freez Slaughterhouse promoting “animals are treated humanely” thus selling at a higher price tag.  The undercover investigator worked in the “kill room” as a blood catcher, collecting rabbit blood in vials for medical research.  The dead rabbits are sold for meat and sometimes under the “humanely raised” label – and their brains and blood are sold to biomedical companies.  Instead of a swift death, many rabbits suffered barbaric treatment.  Supermarkets like Gelson’s Harris Teeter, Bristol Farms and Whole Foods are listening having stopped carrying rabbit meat.
Some feel this goes from one extreme to the other.  We need medical research…medical research in a humane way.  One way to take a stand against unnecessary testing?

CRUELTY-FREE SHOPPING
However, the use of animals in product testing is, ultimately, a consumer issue.  Animal testing for cosmetic and household products will continue unless concerned citizens take action with their purchasing power.  By making informed, humane choices, and encouraging others to do the same, individuals can push for an end to product testing and stop the needless suffering of countless animals each year.

]]><![CDATA[What Makes the American Chinchilla Go From "Most" Popular to "Critical Status?"]]>Tue, 24 Jan 2017 05:54:16 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/what-makes-the-american-chinchilla-go-from-most-popular-to-critical-statusAmerican Chinchilla -Endangered List

The Chinchilla was created by a French engineer M.J. Dybowski showing for the first time in April 1913 at Saint-Maur, France.  Of course, this beauty took the rabbit world by storm as the ideal fur rabbit.  The chinchilla coats amongst the wealthy made for an overnight success.

Originally, these Chinchilla’s were rather small at 5 to 7 ½ lbs. before coming to America.  Here they looked to this breed not only for fur but also meat.  In 1919, Standard Chinchillas were brought to New York’s State Fair.  Several breeders began to work at producing larger met rabbits with the same beautiful coats.  By 1924, they were accepted and the heavier weight Chinchilla and was renamed the American Chinchilla by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association.

Between November 1928 and November 1929, there were 17,328 registered – a record yet to be broken today.  So how does the rarest of the Chinchilla breeds loose its popularity so quickly despite the meat producing qualities? 

Since the early 1900's, fur markets have been strongly influenced by changing fashion trends, and by economic and social forces.  An innovation in the early 1900s which led to the demand for long fur coats was the development of the motor car.  The early cars were open, and motoring in cool weather required warm and protective clothing.  By the 1930's wealthy women and the glamorous film stars were usually seen wearing mega white or grey fox coats.  The most expensive furs on the market were sable, ermine, mink and fox.  Oddly enough the lowest priced furs included rabbit, nutria, skunk, and squirrel. 

Fur sales plummeted during the years of the Economic Depression lasting into the early 1940s.  Many people no longer had the disposable income to purchase furs many losing their money in the stock market.  The fur markets continued their downward spiral in the early 1940s due to World War II.  The fur industry was bogged down with WWII regulations and the fur industry suffered a shortage of equipment and materials which went to support the war effort.  Many families experienced loss of income when the heads of households went overseas. 

During these times, many households had rabbits because of meat rations.  Even the most poor could afford rabbit and could feed rabbits with their table scraps.  However after the war, meat became available again in the grocery stores, and the backyard rabbit population lost popularity.

By 1947 fur coats were being made for the “suburban housewives” with a modest purse would have purchased at that time.  The fur coats listed included the lesser priced furs rabbit dyed to look like muskrat for $139.  With the renewed economic prosperity in the 1950’s, fur garments regained their popularity lasting only a decade.  Changing fashion trends, introduction of fake fur, consumer disinterest in furs all contributed to the decline, particularly luxury furs.

1960’s brought animal right activists campaigning to sensitize the public regarding the plight of animals and the cruelties they suffer at fur farms.  In the 1970s, fur coats lost their appeal.  As a result, the fur industry suffered financial losses – many facing bankruptcy.  Many animals were facing extinction.

Fur is Back Big Time.  The fur industry is booming.  Global fur sales rose by 70% from 2000 to 2010.  Annual sales for fur pelts reached $15-16 billion according, according to the fur industry’s trade association.  An industry spokesperson attributed the rise primarily to two factors: designers who have incorporated small amounts of fur into wider array of garments, making fur an option in warmer climates, and “a younger generation whose passion is not animal rights.”  Fur began to creep back into fashion magazines pages. 1990s grunge and minimalism gave way to 2000s bling and ostentation.

This reversal is not merely the result of a cultural trend meeting its inevitable backlash.  It’s also a story of economics, and of the fur industry’s quiet battle to rebrand its product as sustainable, natural, and luxurious.

Today, the American Chinchilla’s  incredible assets as a meat productions breed, their temperament, ease of care, and gorgeous color, have come back from the brink of extinction and are now known as a Heritage breed a true National treasure.  Heritage breed are the breeds of a bygone era who were carefully selected and bred over time to develop traits that made them well-adapted and thrive.  Those of us who have chosen to champion their cause continue to breed, so the bloodlines have a chance to flourish.
Look to this breed to help protect from extinction or a factory workspace whether it is a 4H project or a pet to love.

]]><![CDATA[How Large Should A Rabbit Hutch Be?]]>Fri, 20 Jan 2017 19:11:56 GMThttp://willamettevalleyrabbitry.com/blog/how-big-should-the-pen-beby: Susan C.

These are some of the basic questions I asked when first starting my Rabbitry.  Hopefully, the information can assist you in building the most awesome rabbit hutch in the neighborhood!

Have you heard of the American Welfare Act?

According to these guys, there should be minimum floor space by calculating weight of the mature animal solves the guess work.
Breeds weighing less than 4.5 lbs
Breeds weighing 4.5 to 9 lbs
Breeds weighing 9 to 12 lbs
Breeds weighing over 12 lbs
Doe with litter (under 4.5 lbs)
Doe with litter (4.5 to 9 lbs)
Doe with litter (9 to 12 lbs)
Doe with litter (over 12 lbs)
1.5 sq ft
3 sq ft
4 sq ft
5 sq ft
4 sq ft
5 sq ft
6 sq ft
7.5 sq ft
There is a recommended minimum height for all breeds of 14 inches.  When calculating the square feet, it is important to subtract feed and water dishes that occupy floor space.

This is one of the reasons feeders and water bottles attach to wire of the cage front are recommended for their efficiency and at the same time free up floor space!  Naturally, a larger pen is not harmful.....we all like space to move about.

The design of your pen is only created in your mind.  It is limitless in how elaborate you wish to get.  The most common pen is made of all wire, which is the most sanitary, as the waste from the rabbit will fall through the wire floor onto the ground or into a pan depending on your design.

Send us a pic when you have it built.  We would love to see your creations.
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